Wednesday, February 8, 2017

Build a G Deck

When someone starts to play a game which already has developed to a certain degree of complexity is the actual "adaptation" that takes time to learn, filter and become better and Cardfight Vanguard is no exception to this.
I do remember when I started to play Yu-Gi-Oh. I was practically an idiot at building decks. I would throw literally everything that would seem to fit in the concept of the so-called strategy and create the most hilarious decks ever. However, with time, I learnt on how to do a proper deck.
The first thing I did was, probably, something that any new player does in any gam:  google things. In the TCG world, this is called netdecking. It is a natural thing to do at the start, but eventually you will have to walk on your own two legs and this will help you on doing it better. 
A key facilitator in building a deck is that half of the deck is made of staples but the problem stands in  choosing the other half of the deck. It can be very hard, especially when you have a very diverse choice of cards.
The first half of the deck is composed by:

Grade 0:
1x Starter
16x Triggers

Grade 1:
4x Perfect Guards (also called Null Guards)
3/4x "1+2" units (these units are considered as a grade 3 when paying the cost for Stride).

4x G-Guardians
Every deck has a starter unit with an ability that will give you somehow, a starting point in activating skills. As for the triggers, the most common ratio is 8 Critical Triggers, 4 Draw Triggers and 4 Heal Triggers but as from any other rule, there are exceptions. For example, Oracle Think Tank decks run 12 criticals/4 heals as they have enough draw on their own. 
Apart from this, each clan has some specific staple units which are present in every deck, making the approximate number of staple units in your main deck of 25 and in your G-Zone of 4 cards.
As for the second half of the deck, it is essential to take into the account that interactions in a deck are like wild chain reactions. You activate one skill, and that leads to the second skill activation and then a third and so on. Taking that into the account, I have learnt that excluding irrelevant units (units which do not work together or are useless in any deck) and after some careful reading of rest of them, I decide on the final units.
Having done the above, you can start to build the rest of the deck in reverse order. You should start with your G-units and as they will be your main force and move to the grade 3's. Keep in mind you have to select a grade 3 that will not only activate its special skills when you stride over it but also that that skill will harmonize with the G-units' ones. It is very important to do that as they either provide a nice strategic support or start a chain reaction of other units' skills. Moving down to the grade 2's  which can be considered as the "adrenaline" of your deck's strategy. They not only make sure your vanguard skills can be activated but also amplifies them, taking them to the level to an atomic explosion.
Grade 1's importance cannot be underestimated. By default, they are the only ones who have the ability to boost (give their power to the front row units when those attack) and also, one of their primary attributions is to ensure the fluidity and sustainability of your deck. For example, your deck counterblasts a lot. There are some grade 1 units which can let you countercharge independently or as a result of another skill.
The tricks mentioned above will work only if you have a clear and neat strategy.  It doesn't matter if it is a a common known strategy or an obscure one. You should take into the count that each deck is, basically, a series of chain reactions. You activate one skill which leads you to a multitude of possibilities.  The worst thing that can happen is when your strategy is falling apart by mixing cards designed for different mechanics or even units. 
Even though the tricks above can help you in building decks, the only and true way of making it perfect is through trial and error. Build, change and make the best decks ever.

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