Sunday, February 26, 2017

Glorious Regalia

With all of this chaos around, I decided to play with one of the most scariest unit in the history of Vanguard: Cosmic Regalia, CEO Yggdrasil.
Apparently, with some simple modifications to the deck, you can actually make you make some real damage while trolling your opponent.

Grade 0:
1x Regalia of Prayers, Pray Angel
4x Regalia of Far-sight, Clear Angel
4x Mirror Regalia, Achlis
4x Regalia of Compassion, Eir

Grade 1:
4x Cold Blast Regalia, Svalinn
4x Witch of Oranges, Valencia
3x Ordain Owl
2x Exorcism Regalia, Shiny Angel

Grade 2:
4x Regalia of Fate, Norn
4x Twilight Regalia, Hesperis
3x Witch of Grapes, Grappa

Grade 3:
4x Regalia of Wisdom, Angelica
4x Cosmic Regalia, CEO Yggdrasil

G-Zone:
4x Sacred Flame Ultimate Regalia, Demeter
4x Prehistoric Regalia, Urth
4x Goddess of Seven Colors, Iris
4x Sky-dome Battle Maiden, Hanasatsuki

When started to make this deck, I thought it would be a simple upgrade but, it turned out to be more than that. After each couple of games, I found myself of removing more and more from the original deck and changing it for other units turning it into a whole new deck with a new strategy,
Basically, in this deck, the drop zone becomes buffer zone for your soul. With some neat skills you put the cards you need into the drop zone and then add them into your soul. Then, through some early soulblasting, you can can move the cards which you will need in your drop zone. Afterwards, you power up Cosmic Regalia, CEO Yggdrasil to the maximum, and then make one attack, which will hit and win the game.
The first task is to thin your deck as much as possible. This is why I play 4 Cold Blast Regalia, Svalinn. It is a Quintet Wall, and will send you a great chunk of cards to the drop zone. Witch of Oranges, Valencia and Witch of Grapes, Grappa can help you as well as they will allow you to soulcharge two per each when soulblasted. Sacred Flame Ultimate Regalia, Demeter can be of assistance since when attacking, it allows you to soulcharge three and not to mention it's triple drive.
Often, some cards you'll need into the soul, will end up in your hand. You can use them to guard early, which is not only desirable, but necessary. You need to control your damage to maximum. Take damage where there is no possibility of guarding and/or the attack will require a huge amount of resources to guard. This is an important and practically, the key in winning the game.
The second task is to sort the cards out: the ones you need into the soul and the ones you need into the drop zone. Let's start with Goddess of Seven Colors, Iris which is a G-Guardian of the deck that gains +5000 shield when called to GC if you put three units from your drop zone to the soul. Exorcism Regalia, Shiny Angel has a similar skill: when you call her, you can choose up to three Regalia  units and put them soul.
Prehistoric Regalia, Urth takes the skill to whole new level, allowing you to return all Regalia units from the drop zone into the the soul (pretty awesome) when you stride her. Furthermore, at a price of a soulblast 6, it gains +10.000 power and an extra crit. It's an average skill but the true purpose of this skill is to sort out the cards you'll need in the soul and the ones you'll need into the drop zone.
And here comes into the play one of the most trolling units of the deck is of course, Ordain Owl.  To stride, you usually, discard a grade 3. Ordain Owl, by returning a grade 3 Regalia from your drop zone, allows you to give a grade 3 Regalia +5000 power. So this why all grade 3 Regalia units need to be into the drop zone (I hope you see the trolling part)
Speaking of power,  Mirror Regalia, Achlis and Regalia of Fate, Norn also gives +5000 power but when soulblasted and this why, you will need them to be into the soul when attacking with Cosmic Regalia, CEO Yggdrasil.
The reason why I use Regalia of Wisdom, Angelica in this deck, besides being a target for Ordain Owl and a free +2 cards in your hand, it's an an assured +10.000 to your vanguard (which can spike up to +25.000 power).
Overall, I can say that the deck is highly competitive and, even though has suffered many changes, the true core still remains the same. Handling it, at the beginning, might be hard but after some games you will master it.

Tuesday, February 14, 2017

Nature's Warrios 2: Special Team

Since we are on Musketeer theme, I decided to make another Musketeer deck. As you already read in my previous article, the general strategy focuses on retiring their own units to superior call others. This allows you to maintain a stronger field, provide fodder for units such as White Lily Musketeer, Cecilia and as a side effect, you increase your chances of getting triggers.
However, unlike the previous deck, this one focuses on White Lily Musketeer, Cecilia:

Grade 0:
1x Baby-blue-eyes Musketeer, May Len
4x Blue Rose Musketeer, Ernst
4x Gardenia Musketeer, Alain
4x Hibiscus Musketeer, Hanah

Grade 1:
4x Dandelion Musketeer, Mirkka
4x Red Rose Musketeer, Antonio
4x Lily of the Valley Musketeer, Rebecca
2x Amaryllis Musketeer, Tatiana
1x Anemone Musketeer, Susanna

Grade 2:
4x Dreamy Grass Musketeer, Tessa
4x Cherry Blossom Musketeer, Augusto
3x White Rose Musketeer, Alberto

Grade 3:
4x White Lily Musketeer, Cecilia
3x Lisianthus Musketeer, Loraine

G-Zone:
4x White Lily Musketeer Captain, Cecilia
4x Flower Princess of Autumn Scenery, Verna

This deck doesn't differ very much from the previous one at the first glance but with these small changes, the execution of the strategy takes a whole new turn.
Personally, I prefer this one as I believe it is more stable but flexible at the same time. It's not highly dependent on Generation Breaks meaning that you can go full blast without waiting for your opponent to reach grade 3. On the same note, it's recycling power it a bit more intense than in the previous deck.
Thanks to White Lily Musketeer, Cecilia and its G-version, White Lily Musketeer Captain, Cecilia as well as with the assistance of Lily of the Valley Musketeer, Rebecca and Blue Rose Musketeer, Ernst, you have a more stable engine to power up Dreamy Grass Musketeer, Tessa but without the risks of losing other valuable units like in the case of White Clover Musketeer, Mia Reeta.
Another part of the offense as well as a key feature of any Musketeer deck are Cherry Blossom Musketeer, Augusto and Dandelion Musketeer, Mirkka. Each of them gain +3000 power you have a Musketeer Vanguard in the first case and in the second, if your deck was shuffled by a Musketeer skill. Cherry Blossom Musketeer, Augusto can be murderous early attacker alone if used early and mid-game not to mention the boost from the powered up Dandelion Musketeer, Mirkka.
It may seem strange that I run only two copies of Amaryllis Musketeer, Tatiana. It's GB1 skill allows you to retire it and in exchange, you can stride without discarding. However, considering the super calling and its skill being a Generation Break 1, two will be plenty for usage.
The main downside of the deck it's the counterblasting which is manageable, but barely. Because of this reason, I am teching one copy of Anemone Musketeer, Susanna. Even though, usually, such units are run at two copies to make sure to get them in your hand, because of all the selective calling and moreover being able to pay the cost only once per game, running only one is more than sufficient. Gardenia Musketeer, Alain also can help you, but you should use it only in extreme circumstances as it is a critical trigger.
As for White Rose Musketeer, Aberto, I did not expect him to work so well. Dreamy Grass Musketeer, Tessa and Cherry Blossom Musketeer, Augusto as my rearguards, White Rose Musketeer, Alberto is the perfect grade 2 ride. In addition, it gives the possibility for some early counterblasting as when its attack hits, you can countercharge one card. It is a nice skill, especially combined with some breaking numbers.
If you have noticed, you see that I run only 8 cards in my G-Zone which is the absolute necessary. For the rest of the G-Units, you can run whatever you want, or better said, whatever you have.
As a whole, the deck runs very smooth but it takes some time to master and it requires a little more bit of thinking as it provides more and more choices at every turn.

Sunday, February 12, 2017

Nature's Warriors

The very first thing I did when I did when I returned to the game was to check on how well my favorite clans are doing these days and I was really surprised to see that one of my favorite decks, Musketeers got some nice support to which I was immediately attracted.
Musketeers were firstly introduced in Booster Set 8: Blue Storm Armada and got more further support but they were not that competitive back then but a a lot of units from that set are now essential for any Musketeer deck. Gradually, they got more and more support, making them highly competitive.
Their strategy focuses on retiring their own units to superior call others not only to maintain a stronger field but also to provide fodder for units such as White Lily Musketeer, Cecilia.
Finally, with the latest support that Musketeers got, I was able to build a highly competitive deck:

Grade 0:
1x Baby-blue-eyes Musketeer, May Len
4x Blue Rose Musketeer, Ernst
4x Gardenia Musketeer, Alain
4x Hibiscus Musketeer, Hanah

Grade 1:
4x Lily of the Valley Musketeer, Rebecca
4x Dandelion Musketeer, Mirkka
4x Red Rose Musketeer, Antonio
3x Amaryllis Musketeer, Tatiana

Grade 2:
4x Dreamy Grass Musketeer, Tessa
3x Lily of the Valley Musketeer, Kaivant
4x Cherry Blossom Musketeer, Augusto

Grade 3:
4x White Clover Musketeer, Mia Reeta
3x Lisianthus Musketeer, Loraine

G-Units:
4x Rubellum Lily Splendorous Musketeer, Myra
4x White Lily Musketeer Captain, Cecilia
4x Flower Princess of Autumn Scenery, Verna

The general strategy of this deck, is continuously superior call units and to power them up. As a side effect of continuously calling grade 1 or higher units from your deck, you considerably increase your chance of getting trigger units.
I use  Baby-blue-eyes Musketeer, May Len as my starter since, at the moment, there is no better starter. You can trade this unit for another by putting into the soul. This will trigger a chain reaction and will not go -1, as other starters.
As for the trigger ratio, it is 8 criticals, 4 stands and 4 heals. This ratio is mostly determined by some of the their skills. The stand trigger, Blue Rose Musketeer, Ernst allows you to return to him back to the deck whenever it is called to the rearguard and choose a rearguard from the top four cards of your deck. Also, in many instances, you might not get what you want in the first place, and Blue Rose Musketeer, Ernst can be a second shot at getting something you need, or at least something better. Also, this can be a neat trick to give Dreamy Grass Musketeer, Tessa an extra +2000. Gardenia Musketeer, Alain, one of the critical triggers from your deck, allows to countercharge up to two cards when called from the deck but I use this skill only when I do not have any other choice since there is no possibility of returning it back to the deck, unlike Blue Rose Musketeer, Ernst.
Lily of the Valley Musketeer, Rebecca and Lily of the Valley Musketeer, Kaivant can help you achieve certain power levels but also improve your field, thin the deck of grade 1's or higher units and will serve as an additional way to start the engine. However, as you can see I did not max out the latest because of its one time skill and, besides, your front row will be occupied with Dreamy Grass Musketeer, Tessa and/or Cherry Blossom Musketeer, Augusto, units which is not desirable trade for Lily of the Valley Musketeer, Kaivant for a its one one time skill.
Dandelion Musketeer, Mirkka is the main booster of the deck. It gains +3000 power ( making it a  9000 booster) if your deck shuffled during your main phase, which, with all the units above, is bound to happen.
As a result of so much calling not only Dreamy Grass Musketeer, Tessa will break some serious numbers but also the rearguards you call. She gains +2000 power whenever a Musketeer rearguard is called and, if you have a face up Musketeer in your G-Zone, any called unit gains +4000 power. This unit profits the most from all the calling and it will be your main force of attack as well as the unit you will stack your triggers on.
What concerns your G-Zone, Rubellum Lily Splendorous Musketeer, Myra is the ace of the deck while White Lily Musketeer Captain, Cecilia will be the fodder for the first one. By soulblasting one card and turning one card with Musketeer in it's name in your G-Zone, all new called units gain power +2000 for every Musketeer unit on the field
Besides the null guard Red Rose Musketeer, Antonio, which is the only way to stop power creep behemoths these days, Flower Princess of Autumn Scenery, Verna is the G-Guardian I use. You may use other one of course, but I do prefer this one as it has a nice skill of giving additional shield. As for other units G-Zone, you can use whatever you like, since there not essential to the main strategy of the deck. Same goes for Lisianthus Musketeer, Loraine. Her skill it is not essential to the deck  so you can run any grade 3 Musketeer in its place.
White Clover Musketeer, Mia Reeta's is your grade 3 main Vanguard. Its generation break allows to return 2 normal Musketeer units from your deck. It is a nice skill, but I do hope there is going to be something better than this. Her other skill, which passes on to your Musketeer G-Unit, is that at a price of a counterblast 1 and 1 Musketeer rear-guard, it allows you to call two Musketeer units from the top four cards of your deck. The things which I do not like is that the rest of the cards go to the drop zone. This is precisely why I used this skill only in a dire need or I do not have anything else that will start the engine running.
Amaryllis Musketeer, Tatiana is the closest thing Musketeers have as a "1+2" unit (a grade 1 unit which allows gains +2 grade when paying the cost for stride). By retiring it from the field, you stride without paying the cost. The skill saves some hand or when there is no possibility to pay the cost for stride from your hand
Generally speaking, this deck has a lot of potential of winning as it breaks some serious numbers, allows you save hand and return key units back to the deck, making them reusable.


Wednesday, February 8, 2017

Build a G Deck

When someone starts to play a game which already has developed to a certain degree of complexity is the actual "adaptation" that takes time to learn, filter and become better and Cardfight Vanguard is no exception to this.
I do remember when I started to play Yu-Gi-Oh. I was practically an idiot at building decks. I would throw literally everything that would seem to fit in the concept of the so-called strategy and create the most hilarious decks ever. However, with time, I learnt on how to do a proper deck.
The first thing I did was, probably, something that any new player does in any gam:  google things. In the TCG world, this is called netdecking. It is a natural thing to do at the start, but eventually you will have to walk on your own two legs and this will help you on doing it better. 
A key facilitator in building a deck is that half of the deck is made of staples but the problem stands in  choosing the other half of the deck. It can be very hard, especially when you have a very diverse choice of cards.
The first half of the deck is composed by:

Grade 0:
1x Starter
16x Triggers

Grade 1:
4x Perfect Guards (also called Null Guards)
3/4x "1+2" units (these units are considered as a grade 3 when paying the cost for Stride).

G-units:
4x G-Guardians
Every deck has a starter unit with an ability that will give you somehow, a starting point in activating skills. As for the triggers, the most common ratio is 8 Critical Triggers, 4 Draw Triggers and 4 Heal Triggers but as from any other rule, there are exceptions. For example, Oracle Think Tank decks run 12 criticals/4 heals as they have enough draw on their own. 
Apart from this, each clan has some specific staple units which are present in every deck, making the approximate number of staple units in your main deck of 25 and in your G-Zone of 4 cards.
As for the second half of the deck, it is essential to take into the account that interactions in a deck are like wild chain reactions. You activate one skill, and that leads to the second skill activation and then a third and so on. Taking that into the account, I have learnt that excluding irrelevant units (units which do not work together or are useless in any deck) and after some careful reading of rest of them, I decide on the final units.
Having done the above, you can start to build the rest of the deck in reverse order. You should start with your G-units and as they will be your main force and move to the grade 3's. Keep in mind you have to select a grade 3 that will not only activate its special skills when you stride over it but also that that skill will harmonize with the G-units' ones. It is very important to do that as they either provide a nice strategic support or start a chain reaction of other units' skills. Moving down to the grade 2's  which can be considered as the "adrenaline" of your deck's strategy. They not only make sure your vanguard skills can be activated but also amplifies them, taking them to the level to an atomic explosion.
Grade 1's importance cannot be underestimated. By default, they are the only ones who have the ability to boost (give their power to the front row units when those attack) and also, one of their primary attributions is to ensure the fluidity and sustainability of your deck. For example, your deck counterblasts a lot. There are some grade 1 units which can let you countercharge independently or as a result of another skill.
The tricks mentioned above will work only if you have a clear and neat strategy.  It doesn't matter if it is a a common known strategy or an obscure one. You should take into the count that each deck is, basically, a series of chain reactions. You activate one skill which leads you to a multitude of possibilities.  The worst thing that can happen is when your strategy is falling apart by mixing cards designed for different mechanics or even units. 
Even though the tricks above can help you in building decks, the only and true way of making it perfect is through trial and error. Build, change and make the best decks ever.